I dropped the truck off last night so they could put a mechanical guage on this morning, and it had plenty of pressure and did not drop off once. They suggested that I bring it home and drive it like I have been. Is there anything else that could cause the pressure to drop and then come back?
Chevrolet pays us 3. That's about 4. Figure an additonal hour for diagnosis, round it out and you have 6 hours. Multiply that times the labor rate the dealer charges and you get the labor charge. Your receipt should have the cost of the parts. Of course they're not seeing the problem, so that has to happen first. I have no other suggestions as to why your truck would exhibit intermittent loss of pressure, if it is in fact really losing pressure.
Seeing if that is what's happening is the first step. It is not unusual for an internal mechanical problem to show low or no pressure at idle and then pick up into the normal range when rpms are raised. In fact, that's almost always how it acts when there's a mechanical problem. The oil pump can put out quite a bit and can make up for some clearance problems or broken pressure relief spring when the rpms are raised.
BUT, I have never seen a mechanical problem causing low oil pressure to be intermittent. I also have a Silverado with the 5. When I rev the engine rpms , the pressure will go back to 40 psi. So for now I let the engine warm up to before I drive off, I have no problems for the entire day. I live in S. Florida and use my truck for deliveries all day. Additionally I have gone to the dealer and purchased an OEM oil pump, and I am planning to replace it after the holidays.
I couldn't have said it better myself. That is exactly what mine is doing. I guess I am going to change out the oil pump. I've done 3 trucks that had similar problems. These trucks were the 6. I don't know if the 5. I put a mechanical gauge on to see if the gauge was bad and the gauge was ok.
I looked at the bulletins and found that the O ring on the plastic pickup tube sometimes goes bad. My thought was that it was rare for a pump to go bad. I changed the O ring and pressure came back to normal. This is not exctly the same as your situation because the oil pressure wansn't at zero, just kinda low about 20 psi.
When i up the RPM's the pressure goes lower. The O ring was a couple of dollars or so can't remember exactly. I figured that I tell you this because you already changed the pump. My friend had one that went to zero and the motor froze up. When we took the motor apart we found that the camshaft broke in half.
Mar 16, Fresno , CA Feb 10, Oak View , CA Dec 27, Duarte , CA Nov 10, Las Vegas , NV Nov 2, Laguna Beach , CA Oct 14, San Diego , CA Oct 8, Adelanto , CA Sep 14, Get a Quote 1-Year 12,Mile Warranty. How urgent is an Oil Pump replacement? How can we help? There is no part number for this screen. Just popping it out seems like a bad idea. To get at it, you need to remove the intake manifold.
I had never done this before but it wasn't difficult. It was just time consuming because of all the connectors and lines you need to take off as well as removing the alternator. Underneath the intake manifold is the Oil Lifter assembly. The oil sensor attaches to this assembly. Once the intake manifold is removed, the oil lifter assembly is really easy to remove and replace. There are no serviceable parts on the oil lifter assembly, including that screen except for the gasket that can be re-used, but comes with the assembly.
I examined the screen on the old assembly and honestly it didn't look too bad. So that makes me think it's not as simple as others have indicated. The parts list is as follows: 1 New Oil Lifter Assembly 2 New Oil Pressure Gauge 3 New gasket set for intake manifold old ones can't be re-used I am really glad I did the whole job as described, because removing the intake manifold is not really something I want to do again.
So while you're in there, you might as well put new parts in. I hope this helps some else. As stated above, my husband replaced the oil pressure sensor according to some here and schematics I believe, there is no filter screen under it in the He also replaced the throttle body a month or so later.
After doing all of this we still had the problem of the oil pressure dropping. He has now replaced the oil pump with a high volume oil pump and O ring. He said the old O ring was rather hard. After doing this work, I am happy to report that the oil pressure is It appears to be fixed now. I bought a and am not driving the enough to say that there are no further problems but it has been running well when it is driven.
I hope that this helps others with the same problem. In and older model with K, I think I would start with the oil pump and O ring first to see if it fixes your problem. Update on the status of the fix after replacing oil lifter assembly, oil pressure sensor and oil change on my Chevy Solvetado with , miles on it. The problem seems to have been fixed completely. Did a round trip to mountains since fix and been driving around town. Pressure gauge is behaving much better.
It never drops to as low as I was seeing and is showing higher than 40 under acceleration. I wonder what this oil lifter assembly does? If it is failing, I wonder if it doesnt move oil around lile it should? Maybe there really was a pressure problem? Of course it could have been the sensor failing as well. I am leaning towards the screen not really being the problem in my case.
It really didn't look dirty or clogged. Upon further reflection, I am certain the only problem I had was a flakey oil pressure sending unit. I had the same problem; fluctuation oil pressure and would drop to zero and tell me to shut the engine down.
Someone said that the oil filter may be clogged or have sludge in it. I went and got my oil changed and the problem has since gone away.
Hope this helps. My husband is an old school mechanic whom changed my oil meticulously on time. Jeffrey answered 5 years ago. Just seen this we just bought a 08 Suburban LTZ with the 5.
The check engine light was on when i test drove it oil pressure seemed ok though well they told me they ran the codes and it was a evap code and there repair shop would fix it no problem so i bought this thing and being a ex ase tech i decided to run the code my self when i got home it was just bothering me So of course it was on for low oil pressure so i called there shop which told me they cant get it in for another week so im waiting on that i decided to just go get the filter and spending unit and change the oil at the same time with good oil and a good filter really wasnt bad to change just removed the pcv hose and fuel line got right to it Well after pulling the sending unit i found some one has already removed the screen so i went ahead and installed the new pressure sender and changed the oil Well at start up has around 60psi and slowly as the temp rises dropes to about 5 to 10psi on a mechanical gauge I do know the pressure stays around 40psi while driving but as soon as you stop its down low and im prety sure i can hear some lower end noise every now and then once warm and idling for a little bit Sure there gana try to screw me on this also seeing as it was bought as-is Gana see what they will do for me since they said theyvwould fix the problem the light was on for then might try a new oil pump next if they dont help Meak answered 5 years ago.
Can a oil gauge malfunction be a possibility and related to the blower repair? Is it possible that a wire was knocked loose or something to that nature?
I'm having the same problem and it happened right after the blower repair. I've already changed the sensor switch and I still have the same reading on the dash. Any insight would be very helpful.
I had a Similar oil pressure problem. We bought a Suburban 5. The first problem was that when the temperature dropped below 10 degrees I live in Minnesota the pressure would drop to 0 when I would start the vehicle in the morning.
In order to keep the pressure up I would need to nurse the rpm until the engine warmed up a little, then the psi would stay above The second problem was that I could not get the pressure past 40 psi no mater how high I ran the rpm, that is until the motor was completely hot. I would see the pressure slowly rise while driving on the freeway until it was finally up to 55 psi when the rpm was above This would usually take 20 minutes. At normal cruising speed the psi would run around I also had a pretty loud lifter until the motor was heated completely and then it would quite down.
Steps followed to fix the problem: 1 Researched on the internet mistake 2. The oil pressure is now acting the way I would expect it to; starts out high, drops a little as the engine heats up, fluctuates with rpm. I still get a little lifter noise at first but it quiets down after a couple of minutes. Lessons learned: 1 When buying a used GM truck or any vehicle , always be the first to start the vehicle in the morning ref mistake 1.
The Suburban was completely heated when we test drove it so everything seemed great. I don't know if the seller purposely deceived us, I like to think not, but I will never buy a used vehicle again unless I get the chance to cold start it.
I used an ATV jack to drop and install the differential and it made the job so much harder. Some people lay on their back and muscle the differential out and back into place but I'm past that age. I hope my experience helps. I installed a new oil pump, but the old one looked fine and was not the issue. I am convinced the O-ring on the oil pump pick up tube was allowing air to be pulled into the oil system.
This type of air leak on the oil suction tube could cause all types of problems. Maybe mine is a slightly different problem because I replaced the sending unit and the intermittent low oil pressure issue seemed to disappear. But then returned. I say that because if goes from normal to zero in a fraction of a second then back to normal in a fraction of a second. The needle jumps. If the pressure was indeed zero and building back up the needle movement would be slower. As far as clogged screens, I cannot see how the needle would not go low and remain low.
Could be the step motor. I know there was a problem with and older. You can buy them and replace yourself or send the instrument cluster in for repair. Yeah I soldiered new ones in my 03 couple years ago. They went out one by one. This one is acting differently than each of those that went out but I will keep that on my list of potential things.
GMCsquared answered 5 years ago. So my issue is that at various times, or not at all, my oil pressure gauge will go to near 0 and the oil light comes on with the alarm bell ringing.
I can run this for 1 mile or 10 before the problem starts and when it does it stays in this condition until it is shut down. No engine noise, no tappets or anything, just that ringing Oil and filter just changed and no change-- it's being suggested that I replace the engine Your problem sounds like the one I had on my Yukon XL.
We changed the oil pressure sensor and cleaned the throttle body, working through possible fixes, before finally changing the O Ring.
I didn't have anymore problems after that, before I sold it a month or so later. Bottom line, the 3rd try may have fixed it. So I would suggest starting with the O Ring. Update: Mechanic hubby put a high volume oil pump and also a new O ring on the pickup tube. After that, the pressure was always high, I think around 65 lbs. I also had a lifter s rattle about once a month. After replacing the pump and O ring I didn't have any further problems for the month or so that I kept it.
Primarily my oil pressure would drop down to less than 5 lbs after I drove it a mile and then I would spend my time at red lights with my foot on the brake revving the engine to keep it from about shutting off.
Changed oil and recently had pan gasket and that o- ring done so going to try sensor next? Redemn93 answered 4 years ago. I am basically having the exact same symptoms and same year truck. What fixed it for you? I am hoping you say it was a faulty stepper motor in the gauge. Calyssa answered 4 years ago. Mine went back to normal after changing the oil 3 or 4 times in a month and using only good ACDelco filters.
Also put Lucas in it. I think it was just sludged up. First off this problem is a gold mine for chev and gmc maintenance departments. Drivers of these 5. After I replaced it I had problems again and he told me over the phone to go to an auto parts store and get an engine oil flush and put it in 5 minutes in a hot running engine before they drop the oil out.
I went to Napa and got their brand plus a wix gold filter and changed the oil and it has been perfect since. I'm going to do it at my next oil change as well. I have k miles on my truck. When you google a mechanic that tells you how to do it he got it done in 17 minutes. This is a flat out rip off by gm dealer repair departments.
I ended up putting a mechanical gauge in and ran it into the cab. It could but it's important to keep it in. It protects the small passages from getting clogged. It's purpose is for the management system that cuts off 4 cylinders during light throttle.
GuruZ answered 4 years ago. I have been dealing with the low oil pressure on my 08 silverado for many months. Replaced the sending unit and screen didn't work ran eng cleaner didn't work tried oil additives didn't work tried turning volume up on radio didn't work what did work and I believe this is the correct fix after reading many answers drop the oil pan and replace the oil pump pickup tube o ring.
It was hard as a rock and broke apart when I touched it. Oil pump was good. Oil pressure is now 40 psi at idle 60 psi at hwy speeds. This is what happened to me and how it was resolved. I got the low oil pressure signal while at highway speed, stopped, checked oil Full , no engine clanking so I carefully limped it home, stopping several times when the pressure returned to zero.
It would jump to normal after stopping for a while. I could get about 4 miles out of it. I changed the oil pressure sender and screen at home. Its hard to get at, but it can be done easily with a proper set of tools including a oil pressure socket Ran fine for about a week, then the low oil pressure returned and worse than ever. I foolishly took it to a dealer to have the 'experts' check it out. They called me back later. They had attached a mechanical gauge at the top of the engine and also at the oil filter.
They confirmed that the oil pressure at the top of the engine was sliding to zero, but the bottom gauge was normal. I luckily called BS on that and told them I wanted to know what "pressed fitting rotated". They couldn't tell me even after I talked to the GM district manager. It all sounded fishy so I picked the truck up and drove it home. Had no problem with the oil pressure in about 20 miles.
I started talking and asking around using the internet a lot. I got some things to try. This is what has cured the problem for me: - I flushed the engine with a 5 minute crankcase flush, I think it was called 'KW 5 minute flush' - Full oil change using Mobil 1 full-synthetic 5W - A Mobil 1 oil filter, a M This is a larger filter than is specified.
The advice to use a larger filter came directly from a GM technical bulletin. I have had no problems since this was done about miles ago. I believe the problem is solved. An interesting point is that I had no more problems after picking up the truck at the dealer. Don't ask me how, but GM recommends a larger oil filter in these vehicles now.
I don't believe this is an approved "Dexos -1" oil anymore, it was when I started using it, but it is not anymore. I am switching to Mobil 1 full synthetic. Another small interesting piece of information is that before all this my fuel mileage was dropping from about The AFM switches to V4 mode much more often. So here is my advice if you are experiencing low oil pressure: Replace oil sending unit and screen, Flush, change to full synthetic oil and most importantly, use a PFE oil filter or equivalent.
I hope this post is of some help. Guru9Y9QC answered 4 years ago. Have not read any issues similar to mine but will share for anyone that might recognize the symptoms. No screen in place under the sensor. Reinstalled the faulty sensor -- no smoke! Tried another new sensor with same results. After probably times trying to use a sensor and referring to several mehanics I finally Installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge ,but the truck lost all pressure at stop signs and would barely cripple across the street before building enough pressure to stop rattling.
Took off the tube to the mechanical oil gauge the original location of the oil pressure sensor and installed a short piece of iron pipe with a cap on top.
Runs great. No smoke. No rattle. Also, have no idea what the oil pressure is. My truck has k and runs strong. In a way, I hope this does not encourage anyone to copy my approach, because I'm sure this is the worst possible action a person could take but it produced miracles for me and now after about 5 months later still drives great.
Loudelectronics answered 4 years ago. Just in case some people are scared of a rebuild looming I have a 09 Silv NBS 5. Motor has burned oil since day one. I do oil changes every 17, - 23, per oil life monitor crazy i know. I have pulled a 7k lb trailer over , km of trucks life. Truck has , km on it currently on original motor and trans trans oil change every ,k. I have the same problem with the oil pressure sensor on and off pressure.
It seems to be worse if I do not use Valvoline maxlife for some reason and do not know why. This really limits my choices for oil changes while on the road. I have ran this truck out of oil, started it on fire, ran with percieved no oil pressure for over 6 hours at 80 mph pulling a sled trailer through idaho and montana. Truck still runs fantastic and does not burn any more oil than it did since new. Anyway, I will check this filter again, as I paid someone to change it but problem still persists off and on.
Motor is does not make any ticks or knocks so i know it has to be oiling especially since I have been running it like this for a couple years now with out being able to fix the problem. Will run months with out issue and then pressure will drop while driving and return as fast as it dropped. Would there be any other cause for this besides the sensor filter? GuruZT4B1 answered 4 years ago.
I had an 04 GMC with 5. I bought it with about 45K on it and every thing was great. After about 6 years and 75 K I noticed the ail pressure started to drop. I was running Castrol Syn 10w I don't know what kind of oil was originally used. The oil pressure would go down to about 20 psi under load. Drain crankcase replace the oil filter. To my surprise the oil pressure came back up. After about to miles the pressure started to drop off. Pulled the filter and it was plugged with like black syrup.
It took me about 6 times doing this before the oil pressure stayed up for about miles. Before I did this I had a lifter ticking and a miss. Cleared this up. I think that the pickup screen was plugged oil consumption good.
There was no harm using this chemical. Hector answered 3 years ago. Jeff answered 3 years ago. Ours is similar but I know for a fact it started throwing the "low oil pressure Stop Engine" light after my battery died and I swapped it. Ran perfectly up until then. Got our first really cold weather for the year and the battery died.
A couple days later I picked up a new battery and installed it. Immediately we started getting the dinger and lights after driving a short distance. Idles below and we get rattle then too. Shut it off and right back on and it runs perfect for 15 or 20 minutes and does the same thing.
Now the blinkers stay on after I return the blinker leaver to center. Sometimes when it starts to act up it turns a blinker on all by itself. Definitely electrical in nature. Oil always changed, Oil full, etc. Started as soon as new battery installed. Samie answered 3 years ago. Word of warning--I removed the screen as suggested in a previous post due to oil pressure gage showing low oil pressure.
Hooked up manual gage which showed good pressure. Replaced sending unit and after the motor ran for a few minutes the pressure dropped again. At this point I discovered the lifter oil filter under the sending unit. I removed it and discover it was clogged with metal fragments nonmetallic so I tossed it as several posts suggested.
Big mistake! Within 10 miles one of my AFM lifters stuck open and I had to remove a head and replace the lifter. GM should recommend that thing be changed at k miles. William answered 3 years ago. I have a 08 Chevy Avalanche. What do i need to do next? NobleMO answered 3 years ago. On my '09 Chevy 4wd Silverado with , miles.
Family light duty use: - 2 years ago low oil pressure alarm when driving. Plus sensor. Starts around 40psi then drops below Worked for one week-- same issue.
Same low oil alarm problem. The old seal was "flat" thought this would fix it. Pressure drops to 15 psi at idle. The mechanic is now saying I need a different engine. GuruL6 answered 3 years ago. I had the same problem. If this is clogged the oil pressure sending unit does not get supply. Do not take it out and not replace it.
This could lead to collapsed lifter. Replacement of lifter is not simple or inexpensive. After I replaced mine at k my oil pressure at idle is 45 psi and psi at rpm. I will replace filter every 50K from now on!
Richard answered 3 years ago. NobleMO - I would try changing that screen again even though you just did. Could be defective or maybe there's something in your oil that clogged it quickly. I would change the oil and filter too, but if you made all of those other repairs since it started again, I'm assuming that was done.
Did you replace the sending unit? You could either replace it or check the pressure with a mechanical gauge.
But replace the screen again regardless. Sending unit good. Changed oil and filter. Screen is clean. Finally changed lifter and all is good. Oil pressure 45lbs. Gm should issue a bulletin and letter to all owners to change that screen at least at k miles.
It was the start of my problems and the ultimate solution. By the way, if you check oil pressure with a mechanical gage you are checking it at the same location as with the sending unit downstream of the screen and you will get the same results provided the sending unit is good.
When you change the screen be sure not to get debris in the oil passage. GuruWT6S9 answered 3 years ago. My Silverado k miles, runs terrific. But Oil pressure drops to zero and Indicator saying turn off engine. Now Pressure holding near 40 after few miles of of driving so far. I read online Someone say they change oil and filter that solve their problem. Good luck everybody. DanieB answered 3 years ago.
Donsavage answered 3 years ago. I found theres a valve in the oil pan that can go bad. Had the same problem works fine till the oil heats up. Jim answered 3 years ago. I have a very similar problem. Bought a avalanche with 75, miles. Everything worked good till I hook up our rd trailer to see how it would pull it.
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